Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and visitors equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a select roster of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it enters a global network of over 400 cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "stands as proof of its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and vibrant gastronomic culture," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this time-honored city arrives as little surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, lively, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the limelight for what has always characterized its soul: an profound devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a constant conversation from waking up until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, refined, and raised to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases fresh harvests but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on countless corners, there are little shops and stalls – hidden treasures that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with fluffy buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and demanding. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though express concern that their children are reluctant to take up the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will motivate more people globally to learn these stories and visit the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
